My Journey to Nepal: 06/16/14

Buddhist Prayer Flags

Traditionally, Buddhist prayer flags can be found in the Himalayas Mountains, along rooftops, even embedded in the flora of a country. They are hung to bless the countryside, those that are living nearby, and serve many other purposes. They traditionally come in five colors, which represent the Five Elements: sky (blue), air/wind (white), fire (red), water (green), Earth (yellow). Tibetan Buddhists believe that once all of the elements have reached a balance, good health and harmony will follow. Although many believe that the flags carry prayers, that is a common misunderstanding. In fact, there are mantras written across the prayer flags and in addition to saying the mantras, prayers are offered up for those that hang the flags for lifelong blessings. The best time to hang the flags is in the morning, preferably when the sun is shining and the wind is blowing; therefore the wind can carry compassion and good will to all within its reach. After traveling through Buddhist communities, I noticed that some prayer flags looked brand new while others were old, tattered, and faded. Just as Buddhists have accepted the journey of life through aging, so the flags are treated the same. Alongside of old, faded flags will hang new ones. The old ones are not taken down, burned, or thrown away because of the sanctity of the mantras and symbols. Each colored flag has an image or a name of the four powerful animals, better known as "Four Dignities". Perhaps you can see them on various Buddhist flags, but they are the dragon, garuda, tiger, and snowlion. How colorful and beautiful!

Monday, June 16, 2014

Good morning everyone!

So I've arrived safely in Kathmandu and although it was a long flight to Qatar, I made some friends along the way and it was a tolerable 13.5 hour flight to Doha. I nearly missed my transit flight running desperately through Hamad International to find that my boarding gate was at the tail end on the other side of the airport and I made it just in time to be transported to Qatar Airways and off I went for another 4.5-hour flight to Kathmandu, Nepal, except this one wasn't nearly as cozy. In actuality, it was a bit unnerving and many passengers had angst from a belligerent and hostile passenger who was met by police at the Kathmandu Airport upon our landing.

Speaking of landing, the Himalayas were so amazing, as we flew between them to land at the airport. I was able to see the terraced tea and rice fields, with small communities embedded within the linings of the mountains. No matter how hard I tried to see the tops of the mountains, I simply couldn't. That's how majestic and worthy they were of piercing the clouds, shooting endlessly into the sky! What a sight to see!

I was able to sleep a total of :30 on my entire flight and I went to bed around 9 pm that evening, craving sleep, and woke up at 3:45 am ready to start my day. Although the streets were quiet at 3:45, they soon awakened by 4:30 am and many Nepalese started to rise to start their morning chores.

If I had to describe the transportation on the streets in Kathmandu, I have two words: controlled chaos. Except, it's only controlled chaos for those who have grow up here, conditioned to make up the rules as they go. A single lane can, all of a sudden, turn into three lanes of cars, micro-buses, motorcyclists weaving in and out of traffic, letting everyone know where they are by an agitating beep of the horn. Not once, but continuously until one clears their path and they continue. I haven't
seen any traffic lights, but the military stands guard, police will direct traffic from time to time, and the rest is yours to problem-solve. The rule of the road? There is none. It makes me wonder how traffic back home would thrive in such conditions- I don't think very well!

Today we had an intense language session and took copious notes, Q & A-ing each other, including our instructors, with our newly taught language. It really makes your brain process differently as the order of the sentence is Subject-Object-Verb. For example, here was our first question: "Tapaiko nam ke ho?" It asks 'what is your name?', but it reads "your name what is?" My response? "Mero nam Holly ho", reading as 'my name Holly is". So it definitely takes a fresh mind to process, translate, and speak in return- something that wore out most of us before lunchtime.

We've had a lot of Nepalese food thus far, including their staple meal, which I will have twice a day when placed with my Nepali family, called dhal bhat (black lentil soup with rice). I've had plenty of
tea, Masala tea that is flavored with cinnamon, cloves, and sugar; I've had Nepali tea with cow and buffalo's milk, which really gives it a distinct, fattier taste as they do not shave the fat off the top. I've even tried lemon soda, which is carbonated water, with lemon, and black salt. When the salt is added,
it's as if someone put an Alkaseltzer tablet in and it fizzes like crazy. It's supposed to be soothing to the stomach and it's an acquired taste. My first sip was as if I dipped my glass into the Atlantic Ocean and took a swig- yum, yum, right? However, it will get better and my stomach does feel a lot better!

Before I sign off for today, I wanted to thank everyone who has supported me in numerous ways to make this journey possible! A special shout out to my students, who have been an encouraging factor as I was about to embark to the land on the other side of the world! Some of you wrote very touching letters to me, which I read en route to Kathmandu and they just completely validate why I teach. Many of your gifts have touched my heart immensely and the thought of them brings a smile to my face as I share your stories with my fellow volunteers, leaders, and future students and teachers. Thank you, everyone, for your thoughtfulness, kind acts of charity, and your prayers- you will remain in mine!

I'll post the next time I am able and I hope everyone has a great start to their summer! In about three weeks, the monsoon is predicted to arrive, as they gauge these forecasts by the winds of the Bay of Bengal. Nepal is currently at the end of their dry season and electricity is alternated across Nepal's districts because the country cannot afford to provide electricity for every demand of the country and some of that electricity is supplied to India. However, with the monsoon, and Nepal's usage of hydroelectric power, they predict power will be more available in time.

I hope all is well and if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask!
Take care~

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The Book Bus has finally arrived!!

The Book Bus came and offered many different programs such as book reading, film presentations on climate change, art workshops focusing on the environment, and students were even taken outside of the school campus to collect ground, flowers, plants and learn the importance of them as well as how to plant flowers, etc. Students had such fun with the Book Bus and what it had to offer. Teachers became curious and excited about its programs as well! I hope they continue to bring the Book Bus to Godawari!

Mehendi Henna Art

Upon returning home from my adventures with Brittney and Samantha in Kathmandu on Saturday, Didi created her own designs on my arm and hand with Mehendi. Can you see the two peacocks she has incorporated amongst the flowers? After waiting about an hour for it to dry, she dabbed it with mixed lemon juice and sugar to help the ink absorb and come out darker. When that dries, she pulled off the crusted layer of the ink and rubbed the skin down with mustard oil. If I washed my hand and arm within that time frame, it would not come out very dark and it darkens over time. Upon arriving to school, many of my girls pulled on my hand and arm to tell me how beautiful the art was and how nice it looked! A young man in my level 12 told me it looked beautiful! This is the month for Mehendi. As Mehendi Henna art is a cultural component of India, its popularity continues to grow throughout Nepal. Mehendi is a type of plant found in India, rarely spotted in Nepal, which where the dye comes from. It has a nice, herbal scent, I think, and is completely painless. It is not permanent and can last around three weeks, dependent on how much your art has been exposed to water, and soap of course! After we do our trekking week, we'll return back to our host families before departure and Didi will do a final masterpiece on both arms and hands and possibly on the tops of my feet. I'm very excited!!

Care for a Mo mo??

Mo mos are very similar to pot stickers or dumplings back in the States and other international communities, except they are healthier and, I think, they taste so much better! Rather than dipping them in some sort of soy sauce, they are accompanied by achar, which is spooned out on the side of your plate. Ama asked how many I wanted for dinner and, knowing that five would not be an acceptable number, I replied 'das!', which means 10. When I looked at my plate, Ama had given me 12 and later 4 more, so, for dinner, I had 16 mo mos. I think that is the most I've eaten in one sitting since I've been here! Oh my goodness! Another cool part about today is the fact that I've been invited into the kitchen to help prepare the meal, which exhibits a true acceptance within the family. I was very elated I could participate in this rare meal preparation. Kabita and her mother worked all day long preparing to serve mo mos. See some of the materials used, above, showing some of the ingredients and tools.

My very first Mo mo!

I can't imagine how many Heather, Kabita, Ama, and I made, but when one makes mo mos, there is no dhal bhat for the evening and no other snacks. You just gorge yourself on tasty mo mos, plain or dipped in achar sauce, which is made up of seasonings, spices, chopped garlic, chile peppers, tomatoes, etc. to give it such a flavorful taste! Perhaps Heather and I each consumed close to 30 mo mos between snack time and dinner time and then we sat around with our gorged bellies, feeling quite lethargic!

Tradition doesn't die very easily...

As I've just read about this superstitious and very traditional component of Nepalese communities, I've witnessed it first- hand with Didi, my host sister. For four days, she must avoid entering the kitchen, almost spending her four days in hibernation in her bedroom or outside, washing her dishes outside as she is seen as impure and can inflict bad luck and misfortune on those she touches or serves food. When it's time for her to eat, my Ama, her mother, will place a small bowl of plain rice on the floor and Didi would pick it up and take it to her room. Even if it was a cup of tea, it must be placed on the floor first before Didi can pick it up. This way, there is no direct contact between the 'impure' and the 'pure', taking no risk of a superstitious, bad omen to transpire on any of the family members.

As you may read in the article below, many of the rural communities send these women outside of the house to spend the next four days, which proves to be very dangerous and unhealthy for that female. However, Didi was not sent outside, but spent most of the day in her bedroom.

Even some of the WorldTeach volunteers experienced this type of ostracism during their stay with their host families and, being so culturally different, felt as if they'd done something wrong, enduring what our country teaches as a very normal bodily response for females, a sign of fertility. An extreme contrast in culture, but one that is still very much alive here in Nepal, whether in the city or in the countryside.

The culprit!!

Do see how feisty he is? He's the village menace and just arrived about 10 days ago with two of his brothers- the new gang of Toukhel, Godawari. Be careful! He plays all day long, meows when he is hungry for chicken and eggs, and may follow you a third of the way to school before returning to his turf! I have been very careful not to touch any of the jungle plants here as my knowledge of them is very limited, however I woke up on Thursday with poison ivy on my finger and I think I narrowed it down to this conniving trouble-maker! Just kidding- he's very sweet and cute and we may name him today!!

Load-Shedding.

Load shedding is something I've experienced in Lesotho, Africa, which I'm also experiencing in Nepal. However, it was much more predictable in Lesotho because load shedding occurred at nighttime and ended around 06:30 in the morning. Load shedding in Nepal is dependent on the district and the times are inconsistent throughout the day and evening. Sometimes I wonder if load shedding in Godawri corresponds with the most popular competitions of the World Cup. What is load shedding? Load shedding is the solution for a country that cannot afford or supply sufficient electricity and power to all of its country's demands at one time. So, while some districts have power, others do not and it sort of alternates and shifts the power throughout the country at different times. What also sets Nepal back in their abilities to provide power is that some of the power and electricity must be transferred to India to help them meet their needs, leaving the Nepalese with less to work with. I adjust pretty quickly to power outages, but wonder how many 1st world citizens could cope, being so dependent on technology, the Internet, power, light, etc. So, to cope, Nepal arranges their schedules around the power. What they do when it's in their homes and what they can do when it's out. There is no frantic outcry of "what shall we do!!!!", but rather they conduct their lives as if it never existed before and have no need for it.

Do you have 15-25 Rupees? Care to cram?

So the micro-bus is quite common, crowded, and can be the site of pick-pockets in Nepal. Not only do you hear their obnoxious horns telling you to get off the road, but they can be quite dangerous even if you think you're far enough away! Didi told us last night that if a micro-bus hits a pedestrian and only injures them, they may just back up and run the person over to kill them for one reason only. It's not that they have a vengeance against the pedestrians; they don't exhibit road rage; it simply comes down to money. You see, if the driver hit someone and only injured them, they would have a very unaffordable price to pay to cover therapy, rehab, surgery, hospital costs, etc. Whereas if they killed the person in the accident, there is one set price to pay for the loss of that person's life. Last Thursday, when we traveled to Dhulikhel, our bus had to pull over because the road was closed off and the drivers went on strike. A truck struck a motorbike and killed the man. After the man is sent to the hospital, and he is identified, if he was killed in his own village, the community and family protest (sometimes for days) to bargain an adequate amount to compensate for the death of that individual and the roads remain closed until the price is settled. The truck driver is always considered guilty no matter the scenario and is arrested and imprisoned. It could be for 10 years, but many are released much earlier, sometimes as soon as 2 days. If the person who lost their life was not killed in the village to which they belonged, the roads will open shortly after and the protests rarely occur. On Friday, I will need to figure out the bus system to get into Kathmandu for our weekly meeting, which is about an hour away from me. My Dai has been helpful already and may bring me home from Kathmandu when he closes his shop. I am completely enamored by my host family's kindness and they really exhibit a love and concern for our well-being.

Our first departure and my first cup of Nepali tea!

So the WorldTeach volunteers and Ganga-ji have, essentially, become one big family, all excited (and nervous) about our roles to serve here in Nepal. Today, after many long, intense sessions and always on the go, it was time to say goodbye and new our new host families! We are the families' new daughters, and son, respectively known as Chhori and Chhoro. For a moment, I felt homesick from my family away from my family and I missed them before they even left. Once host families picked them up at the hotel, it was official and there was a void in my heart. However, that void continues to be replaced and filled by the genuine spirit of Ganga-ji's home, family, and the sincere welcoming of my host family. The view from where I am staying is a paradise and such a serene utopia that I have to question whether this is real or whether I am dreaming...again! Upon arriving, my host Didi (elder sister) and Ama (elder mother) have welcomed me with a signature cup of tea after showing me my room and allowing me time to settle down. I've heard that another American is staying here, Heather, who works with a children's place nearby. This is her second summer staying here with this host family, so I have much to learn and always be thankful for. Today is the first day of monsoon season and, so, from my room, I see lush green trees, bushes, plants, and all I can hear is the pitter-patter, dripping of the rain, hearing it softly falling in the distance with birds elated at the coming of the rain and singing their finest songs. I feel so welcomed here and I look forward to the beginning of my next journey in the schools!

U.S. Embassy in Kathmandu.

This protocol went much smoother than when I went to the U.S. Embassy in Lesotho, Africa. After having a meeting already scheduled with Ambassador Sara Bolton, two of us gave our passports,a long with our Nepali leader's Nepali passport for the first checkpoint of security. Following, two at a time, the guards wiped a security sheet that detects foreign powders and then we had to claim anything electronic that could be disturbed by the scanners. We were then exposed to the wand, front and back, and when that was clear, we could enter the next checkpoint in the main entrance where we had to pull out flash drives and put everything in a container and send it through the scanner. Then we stepped through another security point and we were allowed to take our notebook and pen and had to leave our bags behind with a token that would claim our bag upon our departure. From there, we were allowed to exit the main entrance into the beautiful gardens within the Embassy gates, ask guards where we could find the Library and continue asking guards until we were at the door of the library where you had to be checked in by another guard. Upon arriving in the Library, there were many young Nepali men studying SATs, studying for other exams that is administered through the Fulbright program that has a deep network within Nepal.

Lalitpur District, Nepal

Update on Mt. Everest

You may have heard about the tragic events that have occurred on Mt. Everest on April 18th, 2014. This has led to mourning the deaths of fallen Sherpas, cancelled climbs to summit this topographical giant, concerns for the upcoming climbing season as more than 400 Sherpas have banded together and quit, and rising challenges to government compensation allocated to the Sherpas' families, which pales in no comparison to the multi-million dollar industry. Take a closer look. Tell me; where do you stand on this issue in Nepal?